By
Vic Poulos
As summer comes to a close and we start longing for cool weather, my wine urge turns to those that work in fall and cooler weather. In September, I typically begin the transition from chilled white and rosé wines to light red wines for the beginning of the fall season. This is a great time to try new often overlooked varieties that fall weather pairs great with! For example, this time of the year is a great time to break out that bottle of Mourvedre, Grenache, or a lighter Syrah from the Southern Rhone.
Even if you have become a dedicated rose’ drinker, certain rosés drink well in the fall. Fall is the time to move from lighter French rose’ wines to the heavier and more alcohol-based rosés from Oregon and California. I know, rosés are like groceries, as the famous winemaker Maggie Harrison says: You buy them, you drink them and then next week, you go back for more. They don’t age well, but who cares? If you have never tried a Maggie Harrison rosé wine, you should. Try her Antica Terra “Erratica”, or if you can find a bottle, “Angelicall.” Expensive for a rosé but worth the $75-$125 you may have to spend to get a bottle. Angellicall is a once-in-a-lifetime rosé and if memory serves me, was the first rosé to cost over $100, but worth the price.
Two major events in the fall call for special wines: Halloween and Thanksgiving.
For Halloween, assuming you are not escorting children into the street, and are at home trying to scare kids who come to the door, a heavier red will prime your goblin screams. If you want to get in the mood, line up a bottle or more of “19 Crimes” wine. While not the best Australian red blend, for under $15.00 a bottle you can have a decent red cabernet-type wine and collect 19 of the spooky wine labels featuring different prisoners banished to an Australian prison colony, complete with a descriptor on the back of the bottle explaining the person’s crime.
Now Thanksgiving, this is a different story!
My favorite holiday meal takes serious food and wine pairing. While there is no “perfect” Thanksgiving wine, and while the different foods make it even more challenging, there are a couple of basic strategies that may help when pairing wine with this feast.
First and foremost, balance the weight of the food dish with the wine – not literally! Just remember that heavy food dishes call for more full-bodied wines. Turkey calls for lighter wines, but not necessarily white wines, especially if a cranberry sauce is on the menu. For me, turkey calls for Sparkling Wine, Champagne, or even light red wines such as Rosé or Gamay.
If you are a die-hard white meat means white wine, then ensure the wine is a non-oaked varietal. A non-oaked white wine with well-balanced acidity works well. I typically pair a Sauvignon Blanc, non-oaked Chardonnay, or even a Gruner Veltliner for those who insist on white wine with turkey. Italians taught us long ago that Pinot Grigio also pairs well with turkey.
Having steak, brisket, ham, or pork instead of turkey? Then consider a Gamay, Pinot Noir, or Merlot. Just remember, to keep the reds on the fruity side, with good acidity and soft tannins. Flabby, high alcohol, or extremely soft and tannic cabernets will not pair well, especially when you throw in the mashed potatoes and butter! Remember, the most expensive wine is not always the best wine with Thanksgiving pairings.
For those who enjoy Thanksgiving for the food, but mostly for the excuse to drink some special wines, consider offering a “lineup” of five or six wines at the Thanksgiving table.
Pick and choose as you eat. My group of wines at Thanksgiving typically consists of a Champagne, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gamay, Vino Nobile (from my own Fattoria Svetoni Vineyard, now offered at Zin Valle) and finally a nicer Brunello from Montalcino. Let everyone drink what they want, and I assure you the dinner will be a roaring success, even if the turkey is overcooked!
For dessert, if a pecan pie or pumpkin pie is being served, a Reisling with honey notes, a Tawny Port, or best of all, a PX Sherry. I prefer a Sauterne or Canadian Inniskillin wine as a stand-alone dessert – maybe sneaking a bite or two of the pies along with it.
As you can see, fall is the perfect time to switch to different wines. Make this Thanksgiving a wine event to remember!
Salud!
