By
Claudia Castillo
Let’s face it, skincare can be a little overwhelming – especially when it comes to the ingredients and understanding their effects with “acid” in the name.
Where on earth do you start?
When a product claims to simply work, you want to understand why, how, and what makes it work, right?
Having tried various skincare brands across different price ranges, including over-the-counter, celebrity-endorsed, and scientifically-tested products, I can confidently say that investing in premium, medical-grade skincare is something you will never regret.
Let’s say you visit your well-trusted aesthetician and they make recommendations based on your skin type. Do you ever question whether or not you really need it? Maybe you saw an ad on social media with a product that claims to do the exact same thing with the same results, for a smaller price tag.
But then you might wonder: Will that product actually work?
Maybe you don’t hesitate to purchase everything recommended, eager to start using it all that very night!
My advice is to listen to the skin professional (your aesthetician) who is knowledgeable about your skin’s needs. I want to encourage you to use the products that are best for you! I’m here to share my knowledge, tips, and tricks to help you understand why they made their recommendations, so you can feel confident about the products and their benefits.
Let’s focus on cleanser ingredients.
Allow me to introduce to you the acid sisters: AHA and BHA.
Their names may look similar, but these acid families function a bit differently.
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid)
- Works to peel away the surface skin to promote the generation of new skin cells and replace dead skin cells.
- Improves the appearance of fine lines, sun damage, and hyperpigmentation
Welcome to the AHA family! Do you recognize these familiar names?
Glycolic acid
- Made from sugarcane
- The most widely used AHA
- The molecule is small enough to penetrate deeper, at a faster rate
- Anti-aging benefits
- Exfoliates, diminishes fine lines, prevents acne, lightens dark spots, thickens the skin, smooths out texture, and evens skin tone
- Works by breaking up the bond between dead skin cells and the epidermis (the surface layer of the skin), allowing other products to work at a deeper level
Lactic acid
- Made from lactose in milk
- The 2nd most researched AHA acid
- The molecule is larger and does not penetrate as quickly, causing it to be gentle and hydrating (ideal for sun damaged skin)
- Slowly breaks up the bond between dead skin cells and the epidermis
- Increases cellular turnover and collagen production
- Skin becomes thicker, brighter, and more firm
Mandelic acid
- Comes from almonds
- Has a large molecular structure (has fewer side effects and irritates the skin less)
- Can be used to treat sun damage, prevent acne, smooth texture and even out pigmentation.
When using any AHA, remember that exfoliation causes more sun sensitivity. Though it’s important to apply and reapply SPF throughout the day, it’s especially crucial when using any of the AHA acids.
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) clears pores and congestion in the skin. It’s beneficial to use a product that penetrates deeply to eliminate dead skin cells and excess sebum trapped inside each pore.
This family is much smaller than the AHA, with the most common acid being Salicylic Acid:
- Comes from willow bark
- Oil soluble, which is why salicylic acid can penetrate into oily pores and successfully unclog them.
- Goes deeper than AHAs to do its job. (Precisely what makes it such a potent ingredient for targeting acne.)
- Well known for anti-inflammatory properties (helps red, inflamed pimples /pustules to go away faster)
Get ready for some skincare AHA and BHA magic!
The dynamic duo of glycolic acid and salicylic acid are the dream team for your skin. They’re frequently used together at your favorite med-spa. Glycolic acid works its charm on the surface to slough off old, dead skin, while salicylic acid dives in deeper to unclog your pores and dissolve the gunk.
It’s like a refreshing spa day for your skin!
Are you now more knowledgeable about your products? Do you feel confident in what they do and how they can help your skin?
I hope so!
Keep this pro tip in mind the next time you shop for your skincare:
“You are one acid away from a good mood. Where skin glows, energy flows”
